Making a Fur Purse
This is a tutorial for upcycling vintage furs into cross body purses that close with a flap. These purses are perfect for days when you just need the essentials, unless you like to travel light! This purse and similar items are available in the Lady Ruth Design Etsy shop:
Design Process
My favorite part of any project is the design phase. It’s also what I spend the most time on. What do I want the purse to look like, and how will I do it? As can be seen below, the materials I have to work with always guide these answers.
Upcycling Vintage Furs
The fur I am using on this purse is blue fox from an antique stole.
This particular cut of fur came about from necessity rather than any sort of fore thought. I made my prototype fox fur purse too small for the width of the stole, and so had to improvise with this rounded corner collar piece. Simultaneously, the other side of that is what I was left with for this purse. It’s actually a particularly interesting and pretty cut to design around.
The purse body needs to be the length of the fur piece, plus 3 inches. For example, this flap is 8 inches, so I know the dimensions of my purse will be 11 inches long.
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Material of the Purse Body
I like to buy remnants, usually of upholstery fabric to make the purses. This contributes to an upcycled product, because the amount of material is too small to be used as originally intended. It also keeps the purses unique and one of a kind.
**If I am not working with a remnant, I like to use natural fibers, such as cotton, linen, or wool.
Lining
I use a black 100% cotton fabric for the lining. This keeps things easy for me and gives the purses a classic look.
Making the Purse
The purse is made in three parts: the purse body, the adjustable strap, and the fur flap.
Sewing the Purse Body
First, start with 4 rectangles. The squares shown are 9 x 11 inches.
-2 outer fabric
-2 lining fabric
Cut 1.5 inch squares out of the two bottom corners.
Now is the time to add pockets or a label if desired. For a sturdier purse, reinforce with interfacing or cotton batting.
With right sides together, sew the sides and bottom. Do not sew the 1.5 inch cut outs.
Now, pinch and pull the inner corners apart to get a new straight line. Sew and you’ve got the start of a bag.
This technique is called a box bottom, because it creates a flat bottom so the bag can stand on its own.
Repeat this step with the lining.
Press a half inch down from the top on each bag and insert the lining inside the outer material.
Strap
These purses have an adjustable strap, hence they can be worn cross-body or over the shoulder.
This strap is made with a 4 x 50 inch piece. Fold the strap piece in half down the center line and press. Then, open and fold each side to the center line and press. Refold the center line and you’ve got a sturdy one inch strap. Sew a with a quarter inch seam allowance on both sides for symmetry.
*Tip: Because the strap is so long, it may require two pieces sewn together. Sew the folded strap together on the diagonal. This way the bulk is distributed during the pressing and sewing of the strap.
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Adjustable hardware is optional. If you’re making the purse for yourself, you can measure and know where you’d like the purse best. If making it for someone else, it may be better to make it adjustable.
Flap
The flap is made from fox fur with backing made from lining material.
The cotton lining is cut in the shape of the fur piece, plus a seam allowance. The edges are pressed under and hand sewn with a whip stitch.
Final Assembly
Finally, insert the fur flap into the body of the purse, using the pressed edge as a guide. Most important, the flap should be centered. It should be approximately 1.25 inches from each side seam. Next, baste the fur flap inside the purse body.
Insert the straps, centered on the side seams. Use a pin to hold them in place.
Sew the purse together with an 1/8 inch seam allowance.
Et voila!
Notes on Upcycling Vintage Furs into Purses
The design of the purse really comes out of the availability of the fabric and the piece of fur that I am working with. Assembly is all about the same with variations in size of the body and pockets. The antique fur and remnant fabric make these purses one of a kind.
Check out purses now available in the Etsy shop!
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